July 18th 19th
Short day today climbing into the Krkonoše (also known as the Giant Mountains - although there will be more gigantic mountains to come no doubt!) to arrive in the ski resort of Harrachov for a day off at a slightly dilapidated but functionally cosy (and cheap) hotel.
To intensify the recovery I visited a beer spa, where yes, you lay in a bath of hot beer and hops for half an hour to ferment. Maybe a bit gimmicky but it was extremely relaxing.
Spent the time mentally recapping the trip so far. Its only been about 2 weeks but feels like ages! I haven't been averaging as many km as originally planned, but have had a lot of tourist stops, and there are a lot of hills compared to those endless flat days in Holland last time around.
Have downloaded elevation profiles to use rather than the unreliable gps altitude, so can hopefully get more accurate ascent statistics, although probably need to reupload all the gpx tracks to date. Doable.
Was contemplating a hike to some nearby peaks but leg aches and forecast showers are making me sluggish!
Dragged myself out in the afternoon and did 15 miles, crossing the border to Poland and hitting a summit at 1300m.
Had to take a detour as a trail was shut due to nesting birds; Google translate said "if you wake the trumpets you might kill them" so I thought I better go around. To minimize the detour took a small track which soon disappeared and left me bashing through thick forest following GPS, eventually coming out on a a forestry track that looked like a warzone. Still, bilberries are in season and they see everywhere.
Next target is the highest peak in Czech, Snezka (1600m) Have moved around to a different base camp to start this hike, which unfortunately meant coming all the way down to the lowlands and back up again! Arrrr my calves are demanding a day off, which they are now duly getting.
These mountains are really geared up for summer tourists, with buses and ski lifts offering to carry bikes up the mountain, and scooters and ebike rentals everywhere.
By scooters I mean big wheel, gravel tracks scooters, not the kids ones we have in the UK. OK, picture required:
I do get some curious glances as I struggle to the top of some of these summits with my luggage laden tourer, but i hope i make people on e-mountain bikes and the Lycra brigade reassess their achievements when they're enjoying their celebratory ice cream!
Also loads of paragliders out today, and more alpine villages of chocolate box wooden chata, and wood carvings of bears and the local "Man of the mountains" bloke?
Now settled in a penzion having a relax and contemplating routes for hiking tomorrow...
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